I’ve Visited 18 of Italy’s 20 Regions, and This One Is My Favorite

Sicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean, has a magnetic pull on me. I’ve been there eight times, on trips ranging from a couple of days to a couple of weeks, and I still have so much I want to see and do. It has everything: big, bustling cities; charming little villages; vineyards where you can sip local wines; fantastic beaches; ancient archaeological sites; fascinating history; and incredible food. It even has its own satellite islands, including the remote, windswept island of Pantelleriawhere winemakers produce a prized dessert wine called passito.

It’s no wonder Sicily is consistently voted one of the best islands in Europe in Travel + Leisure‘s World’s Best Awards by you, our readers. Visitors flock there to experience Palermo‘s bustling street food markets, take in sweeping coastal panoramas from glamorous Taormina, marvel at baroque architecture in the Val di Noto, do wine tastings at vineyards on Mount Etna, and see ancient Greek ruins in Agrigento’s Valley of the Temples. During my trips to Sicily, I’ve also loved wandering around the charming island of Ortigia, relaxing at under-the-radar beach clubs in Menfi, and buying beautiful hand-painted ceramics in Sciacca.

Read on for the best things to do and towns to visit in Sicily, plus when to go and how to get around.

Best Things to Do

Wine tastings on Mount Etna

Sicilian wine is undergoing a renaissance as local winemakers embrace native grape varieties like Grillo, Catarratto, and Carricante. It’s happening across the island, but wines from Mount Etna, where Carricante thrives, have caught sommeliers’ and wine lovers’ attention. It’s worth booking a tour and tasting at Planet or Donnafugatatwo of Sicily’s leading wineries, both with estates on Mount Etna. You can even stay for lunch and taste local specialties alongside the wines.

Relax at beach clubs along the coast

On hot summer days, nothing beats relaxing at the beach with a good book and taking cooling dips in the Mediterranean. At Grow Beach Cluba short drive from Ortigia, my husband and I ate the most delicious caponata served cafeteria-style for lunch. But my favorite spot was Insula Beach Club in Menfi, an under-the-radar town on the island’s southwestern coast. It’s run by Planeta and is spread out along a laid-back beach with a boho-chic restaurant, bar, and shop in the pine forest just steps from the shore.

Explore archaeological sites

History buffs will want to explore the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento, a massive archaeological site built by the ancient Greeks who colonized the island that’s now protected as a UNESCO World Heritage site. And you absolutely should see it, preferably with a guide who can bring the site to life. But plenty of other archaeological sites are scattered around the island. Personally, I really fell in love with the Greek temples of Selinuntewhich are less well known. And the Greco-Roman theater in Taormina is breathtaking.

Taste local specialties at markets

Sicily has some of the best food in Italy thanks to rich culinary traditions that stretch back centuries. So any trip to Sicily would be incomplete without visiting the outdoor markets, sampling street food, and getting your fill of granita. In Palermo, you can find big, bustling markets like Ballarò and Vucciria, but many smaller cities and towns have great markets too. I love the market in Ortigia, where you can buy nuts and dried fruit to bring home.

Towns to Visit

Palermo

Sicily’s capital, Palermois a bustling metropolis. Over the centuries, it has been ruled by the Phoenicians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, French, and Spanish before becoming part of the unified country of Italy, and its architecture and cuisine reflect that history. More than just a stopover, it’s worth spending a few days to get under the city’s skin.

Taormina

When you picture Sicily, you’re probably imagining Taormina, the island’s most glamorous town. Perched on a cliff overlooking the sea, Taormina was an important stop on the Grand Tour, and it’s still beloved today. Visit the magnificent Greco-Roman Theater overlooking the Mediterranean, stroll the charming Corso Umberto lined with shops, and perhaps indulge in a stay at one of the island’s most luxurious hotels.

Ortigia

Ortigia, Siracusa’s historic center, is a small island connected to the main city by a couple of bridges. Steeped in myths and legends, Ortigia is home to a rare freshwater spring where papyrus grows. Local limestone gives its buildings a golden hue, especially enchanting at sunset. On summer evenings, street performers play on Piazza Duomo.

Noto

One of Sicily’s most beautiful baroque towns, Noto was rebuilt after a devastating 1693 earthquake that destroyed many cities and towns in the Val di Noto. The prevailing style became known as Sicilian Baroque, characterized by ornate façades, elaborate stone carvings, and curved balconies. You can’t help but admire the architecture as you stroll Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the main street lined with shops and restaurants.

Marzamemi

Just half an hour south of Noto is Marzamemi, a little town that looks more like a fishing village in the Greek islands than a baroque Sicilian village, and that’s precisely part of its charm. The town developed around the tuna fisherythe traditional tuna processing facility, which has been converted into a culture and event space. Marzamemi is especially lively on summer evenings, when people flock to the main square and surrounding streets to dine, stroll, and shop in the boutiques.

Best Time to Visit

Sicily is worth visiting year-round, but the best time to go depends on what you want to do. Want to soak up the sun on the beaches and boat around to swim in hidden coves? Then plan your trip for summer; just know the coast will be most crowded in July and August. If you’re more interested in visiting archaeological sites and wineries, spring and fall offer milder weather and fewer crowds. Big cities like Palermo and Catania never shut down, even in winter, which is usually mild.

How to Get There

Fly into Falcone Borsellino Airport in Palermo (PMO) to explore western Sicily or Catania-Fontanarossa Airport (CTA) to visit eastern Sicily. If you’re coming from the Italian mainland, you can take a train all the way to Sicily. The cars roll onto a ferry to cross the Strait of Messina.

How to Get Around

Sicily’s historic cities and towns are walkable, but if you want to travel between them, rent a car. Trenitalia, Italy’s state-run railway operator, runs trains that connect some cities and towns on Sicily’s northern and eastern coasts, but to reach beaches, wineries, and rural destinations like Mount Etna, you’ll need your own wheels.

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